Charlie's Log: November 2016

Bristol, Bath, Wales and Stonehenge

9/24 - 10/16/16

Although our flight schedule was not particularly stressful, sparrows hopping around the seats at our airport gate brought a smile to passengers faces and set a humorous tone for the trip.

Then there's the reality.

Map of travels.

Twila's office is about 1/2 hour walk from her flat. The entire map is walkable from the flat.

Bristol

Our (goodness) gracious hosts.


After transfers in New York and Amsterdam we arrive to the quaintness that is Bristol UK

One of the more ironically named establishments, which is on Black Boy Hill at the top of Whiteladies Rd.

Chris and Twila are in this mid 1800's residence converted into several individually owned flats. Only one is occupied by the actual owner. Their flat is the bay window behind the small tree. Other than having one of the 2 small back courtyards the best feature is the location which is within walking distance of a large park, the University, city center, nice neighborhoods and small shops and at the end of the block...

The local pub. We gave the popular Quiz Night a try but were distinguished only by our remarkably low score.

Small, customized row houses

elegant row houses

your nice, little stand alone.

and the occasional full-on estate.

What brings the Moons and therefore the Patersons to Bristol is the University of B's School of Geographical Sciences--and here it is! Twila's official title is Lecturer in Cryospheric Sciences and her office is a much more modest building.

Next door to the School of Geo is the almost equally grand Bristol Museum and Art Gallery

Even the elementary school is monumental.

But there are always a few hidden gems like this early 20th century art deco structure.

But, in Bristol, home of Banksy, world famous graffiti artist, outdoor spray paint is the most obvious modern art. Lots of graffiti and no obscenities!

Authentic Banksy (notice the plexiglass cover) near Twila's office with ghost Shirley on the left.

One of the most well know architectural features is the Clifton Suspension Bridge. It spans the River Avon which is affected by the tide to the extent it almost goes dry twice a day. This is not nearly as glamorous a view as the usual taken during the annual hot air balloon festival.

The bridge from the south end of Clifton Downs.

from the Avon

Clifton Downs, the large open space near the flat, uses a rustic fencing to keep joggers who prefer the grass, on a path close to the road.

Yew berries. Uncharacteristically, Shirley and Twila decide to taste these berries before identifying them, only to learn that the seeds (not consumed) are quite toxic.

Hawthorns are everywhere.

One of the most famous residents--John Cabot. Here, looking out to sea.

A full size, seaworthy replica of Cabot's The Matthew sits in the harbor.

Steered with a tiller, rather than a wheel.

Hard to imagine a crew of 15+ making a trip across the Atlantic in this little craft.

2 trips to Wales

First is a day trip to Afon Forest Park to accompany the Gen X'er mountain bikers but, wisely, just hiked it myself.

Where the trolls live.

Being late in the season, the heather and gorse were sparse.

The only prolific wildflower was this Himalayan Balsam--unfortunately, an invasive species.

All signs are in both English and Welsh.

Second trip is to Pembrokeshire on the southwestern coast with a stop to hike up Pen y Fan, the highest peak in the Brecon Beacons


We think this is a false summit, at just under 886 meters, but in the fog we couldn't see the true top. Feeling like Scotland!

Sheep and heath!

Our "Norwegian log cabin" near the very small village of Porthgain

We put in many miles walking the Coastal Path.

Stone stile

These stairs give access to a small, attractive beach. But what happens here to create these very large, water smoother boulders?

At isolated beaches, below the cliffs, mother seals kept watch

over their extremely lazy, shore bound babies

And, who can resist the cuteness of a nursing baby?

Porthgain and its scenic, little harbor.

Just a beautiful coastline

Whitesands Bay

Blue Lagoon, an abandoned slate quarry and notorious cliff diving venue.

Random stone construct.

Mandatory historic UK phone booth, tied together with a rope, Porthgain in the background.

South of Porthgain is small town of St. Davids whose claim to fame is the monumental St. David's Cathedral and the ruins of the Bishop's Palace, visible just above Shirley's hat.

We even receive a short organ concert during our circumambulation. Notice the wood ceiling. Purportedly, 2 or 3 visits here has the same merit as a pilgrimage to the Vatican.

The remarkable tower ceiling.

Memorials existed everywhere going back a few hundred years.

2 trips to Bath

First trip we take the train from the main train station in Bristol which demonstrates Bristolian's dedication to bicycle travel.

Even though the Roman Baths are the main attraction, for some reason we avoided them for other features.

We spend some time in the Bath Abby that traces it's origin (but not the current structure) back to the 7th Century. (worst perspective photo ever)

The interior of this building is breathtaking in is architectural design and construction:

Fan vaults.

Ceiling detail where fan vaults meet.

We we're told by a docent that under the floor burials are 4 to 6 levels deep. The walls are lined with memorial plaques

and the floor is covered with grave stones.

Though because of overcrowding, burials are now at an exterior location, this is still an active Anglican abbey.

There is a fine, contemporary installation, including 2 lineal panels of 12 angels playing various instruments.

A small church with really big hinges.

Downtown Bath is dominated by Georgian architecture

including the Royal Crescent, 30 townhouses (about 3 sets of windows). In the 1870's each was sold as a facade, requiring the owner to construct a full building behind!

At the other end of the spectrum, Sally Lunn's Buns occupies a narrow building on a crowed downtown street

Big but unremarkable buns- great toppings.

My original plan was to take the bike path to Bath and so that's what I did the day after our train ride.

Transportation for this ride is a solid, poorly maintained, 5 gear city bike. Other than an uncomfortable saddle and the standard UK left hand side, rear break it was tolerable for this medium length ride.

The trail is surprisingly scenic as it passes through south east Bristol. Going under Thicket Avenue.

The trail, an old rail line for much of the way, crosses the Avon a couple of times. Here, a couple of river boats, canal RV's, docked.

In Bath the trail is right next to the river.

A very strange, little bike rental place along the trail.

Stonehenge

While the stones were first put up twenty-five hundred years ago, habitation goes back five thousand.


Even on a week day in the off season hundreds visit--well, it is Stonehenge. But, management really has figured out how to do it. From the visitor center you can take a bus, along with 99% of the others or you can walk about 1 1/4 miles across grassy meadows and feel like you're making a solitary approach.